SHELLY | 1 One Relay Switch Wireless WiFi Home Automation iOS Android Application – 1 Pack Non UL (1, Count)

The Sonoff Basic with its low cost and ability to be reflashed with custom firmware has long been a favorite of the DIY home automators but now has some serious competition. Here’s why the Shelly 1 may be worth the extra price for certain applications:1. Tiny Size. I was able to fit it in an outlet box in my 1955 home, when the boxes weren’t near as large as new construction today. It even works in a metal box.2. Switch activation uses AC hot. This is perfect to use existing wall switch and wiring for manual control.3. Very customizable. While Sonoff now fills in the holes to solder a header pin, which adds another frustrating step to the reflashing process, Shelly adds an exposed female header should you wish to reflash your favorite firmware like Tasmota. Although honestly, I found their preloaded firmware just fine after updating it OTA to obtain MQTT capability.So will this replace the beloved Sonoff? It depends. For a robust relay you want to trigger with ex

This is my second batch and will be ordering a third. Won’t be ordering any more Sonoff’s.Advantages:1) really, really small in size – easy to fit inside just about any switch junction box.2) 16A relay (vs 10 A in sonoff).3) Relay is isolated from power input so can use it to switch low voltage (like garage doors, thermostats, pool controls) while powering the unit from just about anything. On a Sonoff you have to cut circuit board traces with a Dremmel tool to isolate the relay.4) Has an exposed female header for flashing with your own custom firmware like Tasmota which fully supports Shelly it in the latest versions. The Sonoff actively discourages this and the company has taken to filling the required holes with solder to try to force everyone to use the Sonoff software. Just the time I use up mucking with the solder and adding a header is worth going with this product instead.5) Can be powered with AC mains (110-230V AC), 12 V DC, or 24-60V DC depending on w

12v operation is a no go unless it’s exactly 12v. The esp inside of both of mine was way out of spec when powered by 12v, causing it to boot loop, over heat, and have sporadic activity. At 12.5, the device refused to function, and was running the chip at over 4v. As it’s a 3.3v chip, basically useless.Do not connect it to a car battery. I was expecting to use it on lights in my travel trailer, but as much as it overheated at 12v I wasn’t comfortable trying.Probably fine for 110/220v, but wasn’t interest in trying given the voltage appears to just be run through a half wave rectifier and a voltage divider. Since my mains voltage is 122, i fear it’d be in the same boat as connecting it to a 12v+ source.Both of my units experienced this issue. Stock firmware. The software loads automatically every time the phone reboots, and opens the app if you want it to or not.

This is exactly what I was looking for. The Shelley 1 is tiny and works exactly as expected. If you own a ring floodlight and it’s hardwired. This is what you need to get it to reset it via wifi, Alexa, or Google assistant. Obviously it works for many other devices as well such as regular lamps, ceiling lights, fans, etc…However, anyone who owns one of these flood lights know that RING never integrated into their software a soft reboot option. So for my setup, I’d actually have to go climb up and reset it via button. Or, go kill the power via electrical box. Sadly, I have my router setup on the same power-line as the this hardwired light. To kill the internet to 80+ wifi devices is a nightmare when it comes to reconnecting.With the Shelly 1, (2x) 3-wire Wago 221 lever nut, and some wire, It makes installing a wifi relay super simple and wiring the floodlight even easier once you up there on the ladder. Just need to lock in the 2 wires from the electrical/power

just flash tasmota to it and use that.move the jumper over to the 12v pos.connect enough male jumper wires to go to all the right slots on the female header. connect ground and the next pin also to ground, to program. I used “esptool.py -p /dev/ttyUSB0 write_flash -fs 1MB -fm dout 0x0 ./tasmota-lite.bin” from linux. make sure your USB serial dongle is 3.3v!! not only the levels being 3.3v but the output vcc being 3.3v, since that powers the shelly1. leave the 12v OFF during programming. don’t even think of connecting 120vac!!run esptool and when it completes, remove the usb serial dongle. remove all cables from the shelly1. NOW connect 12v dc to the unit (or 120vac, but I prefer low voltage and I moved the jumper over to the 12v slot). when you give it power, look for the tasmota ssid in your ssid phone app. connect in, go to 192.168.4.1 and do a wifi scan via the button or link. add your access point user and pass. type it carefully 😉 submit that form and when shelly1 reboots, look for its new ip addr on your ‘router’ or whatever does dhcp over wifi for you.once you can get in, you can then do regular firmware OTA and fetch the latest from the mothership.its great. tasmota is great. be sure to config for this (set the gpio pins to the relay and button, search for tasmota and shelly1 and you’ll find the module config you need to use). its all via the web gui once tasmota is basically loaded the first time.